February 23, 2005
A mighty fine dinner
Tonight proved to be a mighty fine meal for myself:
Omelet - with onion, jalapeno, tomato, dill
Fresh Bread - with basil butter
Spinach, mushrooms, and bacon with curry vinaigrette
Millbrook Vineyard - Pinot Noir 2003
Hagan Daz - Vanilla
February 22, 2005
Independent Food Festival & Awards
I just love this idea - maybe next year I can be a judge (..best baked goods to bribe Hillel to let me on to the jury...)
Hmmm rice beer
Best think to happen to rice since sake (via The Food Section)
I have had both the white and red ale and both were very nice. The first taste of the red ale I thought something was off but the more you drink it the sweeter and more smooth you realise it is. Damn if i wasn't a working man i would go get some right now.
February 20, 2005
per se menu and wine
Here is the menu my girlfriend (from now on referred to as J) and I enjoyed at per se:
Amuse Bouche
Salmon and Tuna Tartare Cornets with Onion Creme Fraiche
Chef's Tasting Menu
Oysters and Pearls - "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Malpeque Oysters and American Ossetra Caviar - I liked the smoothness the best in this dish - the caviar popping in your mouth - it was all about texture
Hudson Valley Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine" - Bartlett Pear Relish, Blue Moon Acres Mezza Arugula, Crystalized Pear "Chip" and Toasted Brioche - The simplicity hit my right away. This is the first time I am really eating Foie Gras. The silky liver just melts away in your mouth. And I enjoyed the taste - buttery and soft. The toast and relish went perfect together. And the pear chip and a nice crispness too it. A sweet little sandwich of relish, foie gras, and pear chip made me a bit giddy.
"Pave" of Yellowfin tuna "A La Plancha" - Braised Tokyo Turnips, Heirloom Radishes, Garden Mint and Telicherry Pepper "Gastrique" - The turnips and radishes were amazing, but the tuna itself was not too exciting - I almost wish this dish was on the veggy tasting menu - I think it would have found a better spot.
"Macaroni N' Cheese" - Nova Scotia Lobster "Cuit Sous Vide" with Creamy Lobster Broth and Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo - J thought the lobster was just there - that the taste doesn't really come out. She added that she always feels that way about lobster. I can see where she is coming from but I did taste a nice sweetness in the lobster meat. The overall taste of this dish is a wonderful cheesiness.
"Aigullette" of Liberty Valley Pekin Duck Breast - Wilted Dandelion Greens, Poached Royal Blenheim Apricots and Duck Vinaigrette - Oh I still think of this dish - the taste was pure savory delight. The duck meat itself was beautiful. Paired with a bit of dandelion and a apricot - it was the highlight of the meal.
Snake River Farm's "Calotte De Boeuf Grillee" - Salsify Puree, Braised Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Crispy Bone Marrow and "Sauce Bordelaise" - Another great dish - this came together very well - a complete package. The Bordelaise sauce brought out all the flavors. And those chestnuts - yummy. Oh and I can't forget the bone marrow - fatty deliciousness.
Castelmagno - Gratin de Celeri Branche et Truffe Noire - A sharp melted cheese with a bit of celery - salty - just a taste - and I learnt that there is a specific plate made for a melted cheese dish.
Pink Guava Sorbet - Braised Maui Pineapple, Burnt Flout "Genoise" and Yogurt "Panna Cotta" - To me Per Se is about composing textures and taste - the pieces of this dish seemed to want to talk together. The sorbet was bright and strong - "HI I AM GUAVA!" then the Pineapple was a bit lower but still strong and in charge. But the Genoise was softer - subtle and finally the yogurt was almost and after thought. It creates an excellent first desert.
Bread and Chocolate - Beignet of Brioche, Arugani Chocolate, Cremeux ax Gianduja, and Bartlett Pear Sorbet with Sweet and Salty Hazelnuts - this was I think my favorite dessert. The Beignet was crunchy and full of flavor - the chocolate and cream made me ooh and ahh and then there was the pear sorbet and the nuts. Both so well done and went perfect with each other.
Tasting of Vegetables
Puree of Globe Artichoke Soup - "Fricassee" of Black Truffle and Castroville Artichokes with Parmigiano Reggiano "Mousse" - Yumm - a good way to start off. The soup was pretty straight forward but tasted rather good. And Parmigiano Reggiano Mousse is not only a good idea but tastes great too.
Degustation of Winter Citrus Fruits - Fennel Bulb salad and nicoise olive "Emulsion" - didn't really do it for me - nothing was that bad - the olives matched with the citrus went well but overall it just wasn't that memorable.
Graany Smith Apple "Mille-Feuille" - J said this tasted like apple pie and she hit it right on. And good apple pie at that. The candied ginger was a perfect addition.
Jerusalem Artichokes "Cuits Sous Vide" - Crusted in Tarragon, Crushed Hazelnuts and Toasted Brioche with "Sauce au Beurre Noisette" - For the life of me I can't remember the sauce. Besides that the dish was ok - the best part being the crust.
"Ravioli" of forest mushrooms - Crosnes, Garden Herb Salad, and port Wine "Emulsion" - In my opinion nothing in this dish fails - it was a complete package. The port sauce made these mushrooms taste even richer. The second best dish we had all night.
"Pot Pie" - "Ragout" of celery root, chestnuts, pearl onions and sweet carrots with Black Truffle "Bouillon" - J and I agreed that this was the worst of the night. What happened ? It looked nice - the pastry was standard and buttery but the stuff inside the pie just didn't work - the tastes were too muted.
"Fluer De Lis" - Plumped Michigan Cherry Marmalade and Celery Seed "Biscuit" - I wish this was in front of me right now - cheese you are so wonderful - rich buttery. The marmalade was tart and sweet - mixed with a celery biscuit (that actually taste like celery ) - this was one happy plate.
Banana Sorbet - Tasting of Flavors from Morocco - A creative dessert - the plate was coated with honey - and on the coat of honey was placed about 10 tastes of morocco - there were spices and figs and sorbet. The banana sorbet itself was exciting. J said "Somehow they got more banana flavor in the sorbet then actual bananas have" or something like that.
"Parfum D'Hiver" - Muscavado Sugar "Genoise," Italian Pistachio "Bavarois," Dried Apricot "Coulis" and Spiced Bread Ice Cream - I might have been so enamored with the other dessert at the table or maybe just a bit tired but I can't remember much from this dessert - except that the spiced bread ice cream was awesome.
Extras
Creme Brule - Frank Bruni said it well - At lesser restaurants this would be their claim to fame - but at per se it is just a free dessert they give you at the end.
Pot Au Creme - I have never had this before - a good end to a meal.
Chocolates - Raspberry (i think) - Szechwan pepper - hmmm chocolate
Petit four - more more and more
two packages of macaroon to bring home
Drinks
Per Se cocktail - vodka, Cognac, grape juice and Grand Marnier - this was nice - sooo smooth - and to think I don't like vodka.
Champagne aperitif - with a nice block of sugar at the bottom of the glass.
Wines
The Sommelier was a bouncy friendly guy. We talked a bit. We did not want the wine pairing mostly because with a meal this large we have found that we get too drunk to really enjoy it. So we went with 2 half bottles and a few extra glasses. The funny part is that I was not clear as to how much I wanted to spend total for both of us so instead the wine came out to double what I had originally wanted - and ya know it turned out just fine for me - because it was some of the best wine I have ever had and really this was the night to splurge.
Gewurztraminer, Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany - 2001
Zind-Humbrecht, "Zind" (Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay), Alsace, France, 2001
Ciacci Piccolomini, Brunello di Montalcino, "Pianrosso," Tuscany, Italy, 1997
Domaine des Schistes, Rivesaltes, "Solera," Roussillon, France
Chambers-Rosewood, Muscat, Rutherglen, Australia
February 10, 2005
Hmmm this paper is divine
Ok so some people are just going to think this is nuts but I just love it. The New York Times just did an article about HOMARO CANTU'S creative food. He uses editable paper and food ink to print out dishes in his tasting menu. But he isn't stopping there - he wants to use an ion gun to make a dish levitate. AND he is working on all the patents to this cool stuff too.
Regardless of how you feel about his food, this is exciting. It is a melding of technology and food which really are ripe for mixing. One day maybe I can dowload a tasting menu that a chef has prepared. If you think this is stupid then fine, but the creativity can not be denied.
February 05, 2005
A night at Per Se
I was recently lucky to eat at Per Se with my girlfriend. I have been thinking of that night a lot over the past two weeks. Was it the best meal I have ever had? This question doesn't seem answerable any more. I can say that it was one of the best experiences of my life. Food over the past few years has become very important to me. I am interested in chefs, restaurants, cooking, food science and countless other areas that only a few years ago didn't mean much to me. And the French Laundry has a lot to do with this. I read online the story of meg and jason , read The Soul of a Chef, and was hooked. I needed to know Thomas Keller. Eating his food was never a reality for me. I didn't have the money and was all the way in New York. When Per Se began I became exited. This was a possibility. And it has now happened.
All of this makes it tough for me to be judgmental of my night at Per Se. But I can say a few things. The service was hands down the best I have ever had. They were classy and sharp but not at all condescending. One of our waitress was talkative when we asked questions but left us alone other times. The service seemed almost effortless even though we both knew that it was anything but.
We ordered two tasting menus - yup they let you do that. That means you get about 24 different tastes of food on one night. Did you hear that! It excites me to just write that. A few tastes still stand very strong in my memory. The tuna tartar and salmon tartar ice cream cones given to every diner at Per Se and French Laundry. The powerful snap in taste wakes you up. Wow you think this tuna is amazing. And the salmon was soft - salty - excellent. And I have to say with this first corse I really reveled in how cool my girlfriend is. She actually with no pretension at all bit the bottom of the ice cream cone and sucked out some of the tartar. This was a good start to the meal.
The bread - oh the bread. One in particular - fresh made potato bread. Crunchy on the outside - warm and soft inside. Sweet bread taste that can can only exist in bread only a few hours old filled this little nuggets. But the bread was just a vehicle for the best butter I have ever had. We found out after a new little tin of fresh butter was given to us, that it was Animal farm butter from Orwell Vermont (told to us by our waitress). Ohh I just noticed that I can order some of that golden butter online.
More moments - duck. I have had duck before. But it never tasted like this. This was close to perfection. On one fork I had a good chunk of Pekin duck breast, dandelion greens, and a poached apricot. They tasted so good together that it was as if no one had ever had duck before if they had not tasted this exact dish I was having.
Ravioli of forest mushrooms - I knew I was going to like this but I had no idea it was going to be as good as it was. Rich mushroom taste - port wine sauce - thin wrapping. Those are some lucky mushrooms!
Fleur de lis - a rich buttery cheese so wonderfully paired with cherry marmalade and a celery seed biscuit
I even got to see the kitchen and meet the chef.
wine - the menu - and some pictures soon.