April 05, 2006

Haten the foodies

New York Press' annual 50 most loathsome people list is out - here is one of my favorites:

34 The Foodies

Homo Omniverus

Anonymous sex is no longer fashionable New Yorkers’ preferred form of instant gratification. Instead, they’re filling their mouths with less likely substances—namely, fried mayonnaise paired with pickled tongue and tomato molasses. Welcome to New York’s new food order, wherein plebeians are derided for munching medium-rare burgers unless Daniel Boulud has topped them with truffles. Now, we’re hardly hating on chefs and their miso-encrusted cod (though flame-haired Bobby Flay could certainly stand to sit and spin on an habañero-tipped knife). They’re merely Culinary Institute of America–taught coke (Coke-marinated tuna?) dealers to foodies, the insatiably trendy eaters who are sucking the life out of supping like flesh from Zak Pelaccio’s chili crab. With Frank Bruni and Chowhound.com as their leaders, foodies roam Columbus Circle and the Meatpacking District like packs of hungry wolves, salivating over offal and similarly overpriced tripe. Afterward they retreat to their cave, 14th Street, buying $6-a-pound heirloom tomatoes and compassionately raised veal at Whole Foods, Balducci’s and newcomer Trader Joe’s. Here the foodies wait, like lemming-inching toward a cliff, in 20-deep lines to snag budget-priced Pad Thai and tamales. Whether loathsome or just plain ludicrous, we have to wonder: What happened to the days when New Yorkers subsisted on ciggies, caffeine, party drugs, booze and slices of greasy street pizza? Condos and luxury apartments aren’t the sign of NYC’s Armageddon: It’s six-pack abdominals (these creatures’ mantra is Jackie O’s “exquisite food in tiny portions”) and the nauseating quote, “I got seated right away.”

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