February 20, 2005

per se menu and wine

Here is the menu my girlfriend (from now on referred to as J) and I enjoyed at per se:

Amuse Bouche

Salmon and Tuna Tartare Cornets with Onion Creme Fraiche

Chef's Tasting Menu

Oysters and Pearls - "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Malpeque Oysters and American Ossetra Caviar - I liked the smoothness the best in this dish - the caviar popping in your mouth - it was all about texture

Hudson Valley Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine" - Bartlett Pear Relish, Blue Moon Acres Mezza Arugula, Crystalized Pear "Chip" and Toasted Brioche - The simplicity hit my right away. This is the first time I am really eating Foie Gras. The silky liver just melts away in your mouth. And I enjoyed the taste - buttery and soft. The toast and relish went perfect together. And the pear chip and a nice crispness too it. A sweet little sandwich of relish, foie gras, and pear chip made me a bit giddy.

"Pave" of Yellowfin tuna "A La Plancha" - Braised Tokyo Turnips, Heirloom Radishes, Garden Mint and Telicherry Pepper "Gastrique" - The turnips and radishes were amazing, but the tuna itself was not too exciting - I almost wish this dish was on the veggy tasting menu - I think it would have found a better spot.

"Macaroni N' Cheese" - Nova Scotia Lobster "Cuit Sous Vide" with Creamy Lobster Broth and Mascarpone-Enriched Orzo - J thought the lobster was just there - that the taste doesn't really come out. She added that she always feels that way about lobster. I can see where she is coming from but I did taste a nice sweetness in the lobster meat. The overall taste of this dish is a wonderful cheesiness.

"Aigullette" of Liberty Valley Pekin Duck Breast - Wilted Dandelion Greens, Poached Royal Blenheim Apricots and Duck Vinaigrette - Oh I still think of this dish - the taste was pure savory delight. The duck meat itself was beautiful. Paired with a bit of dandelion and a apricot - it was the highlight of the meal.

Snake River Farm's "Calotte De Boeuf Grillee" - Salsify Puree, Braised Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Crispy Bone Marrow and "Sauce Bordelaise" - Another great dish - this came together very well - a complete package. The Bordelaise sauce brought out all the flavors. And those chestnuts - yummy. Oh and I can't forget the bone marrow - fatty deliciousness.

Castelmagno - Gratin de Celeri Branche et Truffe Noire - A sharp melted cheese with a bit of celery - salty - just a taste - and I learnt that there is a specific plate made for a melted cheese dish.

Pink Guava Sorbet - Braised Maui Pineapple, Burnt Flout "Genoise" and Yogurt "Panna Cotta" - To me Per Se is about composing textures and taste - the pieces of this dish seemed to want to talk together. The sorbet was bright and strong - "HI I AM GUAVA!" then the Pineapple was a bit lower but still strong and in charge. But the Genoise was softer - subtle and finally the yogurt was almost and after thought. It creates an excellent first desert.

Bread and Chocolate - Beignet of Brioche, Arugani Chocolate, Cremeux ax Gianduja, and Bartlett Pear Sorbet with Sweet and Salty Hazelnuts - this was I think my favorite dessert. The Beignet was crunchy and full of flavor - the chocolate and cream made me ooh and ahh and then there was the pear sorbet and the nuts. Both so well done and went perfect with each other.

Tasting of Vegetables

Puree of Globe Artichoke Soup - "Fricassee" of Black Truffle and Castroville Artichokes with Parmigiano Reggiano "Mousse" - Yumm - a good way to start off. The soup was pretty straight forward but tasted rather good. And Parmigiano Reggiano Mousse is not only a good idea but tastes great too.

Degustation of Winter Citrus Fruits - Fennel Bulb salad and nicoise olive "Emulsion" - didn't really do it for me - nothing was that bad - the olives matched with the citrus went well but overall it just wasn't that memorable.

Graany Smith Apple "Mille-Feuille" - J said this tasted like apple pie and she hit it right on. And good apple pie at that. The candied ginger was a perfect addition.

Jerusalem Artichokes "Cuits Sous Vide" - Crusted in Tarragon, Crushed Hazelnuts and Toasted Brioche with "Sauce au Beurre Noisette" - For the life of me I can't remember the sauce. Besides that the dish was ok - the best part being the crust.

"Ravioli" of forest mushrooms - Crosnes, Garden Herb Salad, and port Wine "Emulsion" - In my opinion nothing in this dish fails - it was a complete package. The port sauce made these mushrooms taste even richer. The second best dish we had all night.

"Pot Pie" - "Ragout" of celery root, chestnuts, pearl onions and sweet carrots with Black Truffle "Bouillon" - J and I agreed that this was the worst of the night. What happened ? It looked nice - the pastry was standard and buttery but the stuff inside the pie just didn't work - the tastes were too muted.

"Fluer De Lis" - Plumped Michigan Cherry Marmalade and Celery Seed "Biscuit" - I wish this was in front of me right now - cheese you are so wonderful - rich buttery. The marmalade was tart and sweet - mixed with a celery biscuit (that actually taste like celery ) - this was one happy plate.

Banana Sorbet - Tasting of Flavors from Morocco - A creative dessert - the plate was coated with honey - and on the coat of honey was placed about 10 tastes of morocco - there were spices and figs and sorbet. The banana sorbet itself was exciting. J said "Somehow they got more banana flavor in the sorbet then actual bananas have" or something like that.

"Parfum D'Hiver" - Muscavado Sugar "Genoise," Italian Pistachio "Bavarois," Dried Apricot "Coulis" and Spiced Bread Ice Cream - I might have been so enamored with the other dessert at the table or maybe just a bit tired but I can't remember much from this dessert - except that the spiced bread ice cream was awesome.

Extras

Creme Brule - Frank Bruni said it well - At lesser restaurants this would be their claim to fame - but at per se it is just a free dessert they give you at the end.

Pot Au Creme - I have never had this before - a good end to a meal.

Chocolates - Raspberry (i think) - Szechwan pepper - hmmm chocolate

Petit four - more more and more

two packages of macaroon to bring home

Drinks

Per Se cocktail - vodka, Cognac, grape juice and Grand Marnier - this was nice - sooo smooth - and to think I don't like vodka.

Champagne aperitif - with a nice block of sugar at the bottom of the glass.

Wines

The Sommelier was a bouncy friendly guy. We talked a bit. We did not want the wine pairing mostly because with a meal this large we have found that we get too drunk to really enjoy it. So we went with 2 half bottles and a few extra glasses. The funny part is that I was not clear as to how much I wanted to spend total for both of us so instead the wine came out to double what I had originally wanted - and ya know it turned out just fine for me - because it was some of the best wine I have ever had and really this was the night to splurge.

Gewurztraminer, Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany - 2001

Zind-Humbrecht, "Zind" (Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay), Alsace, France, 2001

Ciacci Piccolomini, Brunello di Montalcino, "Pianrosso," Tuscany, Italy, 1997

Domaine des Schistes, Rivesaltes, "Solera," Roussillon, France

Chambers-Rosewood, Muscat, Rutherglen, Australia

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